I have been surfing about eight times now at four different local beaches: Dominical, Playa Linda, Playa Matapalo, and Manuel Antonio. I am getting stronger and having a good time. I like Manuel Antonio the best the waves are a little more friendly there and I was able to get some long rides.
Recently, I went to Playa Linda with my board. The beach only had about seven people around, but no one was surfing. I went for it anyways. The waves were decent, but I was able to paddle out relatively easily. I caught a nice wave! Happy with myself, I paddled back out. As I made my way out, a large set of waves came rolling through (almost double overhead). Thankfully, I was able to make it over all of them, but then realized that I was pretty far from shore and I was the only person around. After that last large set, I decided it would be safer for me to catch one more wave and then head in. I did just that. As Owen would say, I am not going to lie. The set of large waves scared me a bit and instead of being dumb, I heard Christine’s voice in my head, ‘I will be so mad at you if you die’ and I headed to shore.
Christine and I went to Dominical a few days ago. The waves looked good, nice shape and size. It did not seem to be too big. I grabbed my board and headed out. Encouragingly, I was able to paddle out and not be exhausted and out of breath (big improvement from the first time I surfed here). I thought that I was out far enough, but to my surprise I was not. I saw on the horizon a set of large waves. I began to paddle hard towards the oncoming waves. I made it over the first ok and then I barely made it over the second wave. All I was thinking was I hope that was the biggest of them.
Nope. Even farther out was a monster! I had to make a decision, paddle frantically towards the wave and hope (really pray) that I made it over the top or stay put and just wait to see if the wave crashes and loses force before getting to me. The danger of that decision is if I missed judged, the wave could crash directly on me and that would not be good.
I chose to wait and see. Thankfully, the wave broke about 15 feet in front of me. Even though it broke in front of me, the whitewater was huge. I turned my board towards shore, laid down flat, and held the board as tight as I could. The whitewater crashed into me with such great force that it engulfed me, lifted me up, threw me down, and then turned me upside down. I was under my board while getting jostled violently. I was underwater for a what seemed like a long time. It took a great deal of my strength (whatever ever strength I had from holding my breath and clinging to the board for dear life) to finally twist the board and breach the surface. I was out of breath and my arms felt like lead. I climbed back on my board and got hit with more whitewater, but this time, I was able to stay on my board and I road the whitewater all the way to shore.
Christine had been watching the whole thing and apparently was afraid. Even from the shore she could see how big the waves were. Had I known that large set would roll through I never would have gone out. It is not like I am 19 anymore!
I need to stop with the drama because it is putting a serious damper on Christine’s desire
to learn to surf!
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